If you’re like most of us gardening enthusiasts, you probably have more than one window sill devoted to seedling plants. And if you’re a spouse or housemate of a gardener, you’re relishing the moment the plants can be set out into the garden.

I know my husband is looking forward to the day our living room can be reclaimed as actual living space. I sense he has become a little tired of the 14-foot bench that has plant trays above and below it, with grow lights running day and night.

I just don’t understand.

To me this is heaven. My house smells like peat and plants, a fragrance second to none.

Having published a preview of garden tours last week, I am devoting this week’s column to your questions. I welcome questions sent to the address below. I am very sorry that I can’t answer questions individually, so please don’t send a SASE. Thank you for all your questions and feedback on my columns. I really enjoy hearing from you.

Your questions

Q. I’ve tried for years to grow hanging baskets on my porch, but no matter what plants I grow, it seems I just can’t make them do well. Any tips? — C.T., Washburn.

A. Selecting plants that do well under the conditions you have on your porch will go a long way toward their survival in that environment. Consider the light levels present on your porch. Is it in full sun all day, or in morning sun and afternoon shade? Is it in shade all day? At your local greenhouse, you’ll find hanging baskets filled with a variety of plants. Some hold petunias or strawflowers and are suited to full sun. Some are growing New Guinea impatiens or fuchsias and are suited to part shade. Other are abloom with impatiens, an excellent choice for settings that are in shade.

Once you’ve made a proper selection, be sure the containers receive plenty of water throughout the season. Hanging baskets are quick to dry out. When they begin to dehydrate, replenish them. Remember that the plants are growing in a potting mix, not amended soil, so you’ll need to provide a nutrient source. A liquid feed fertilizer probably will be the most convenient.

To ensure your plants will provide color throughout the season, and to direct the plants’ energy toward flower — not seed — production, remove blooms from the plant as they pass. While deadheading is not appropriate for all, the showiness of most plants hinges on this practice. When you deadhead a plant, you send the message: “Seeds haven’t been produced! Send out more flowers to get the job done!” By this practice, we effectively trick plants into giving us a show all summer long.

Q. I was given a 6-inch pink hydrangea. I’m not sure how to care for it. Do they get root-bound? I understand they are not an outdoor plant. — B.E., Dixmont.

A. Many hydrangeas found in mass markets in spring are not hardy enough to winter over in our climate. Without knowing exactly what you have — that is, the botanical name –, it’s impossible to say whether yours will make it here.

You’ll still get plenty of enjoyment from the plant, though. Keep it in the house in spring, plant it in the garden in summer, and bring it in again in fall if you want to enjoy it longer.

A peek at the roots will let you know if the plant is root-bound at present. If the roots are starting to circle the pot, you’re probably safe until you transplant it into the garden. If the plant is really root-bound, with roots tightly woven around the pot, you might consider transplanting it into a bigger container. Plants like this do tend to become root-bound over time. Woody plants such as hydrangea have extensive root systems that a 6-inch pot squelches. Releasing the plant to a larger pot will be better for it in the long run, and is recommended.

Q. What makes cucumber bitter and how can I avoid it? — M.M., Carmel

A. What a great question! To be honest, I don’t know for sure what makes cukes bitter, and several reference books I looked into shed no light.

Once cucumbers become large, they lose their tenderness and have a tendency to become bitter, although I know that occasionally I’ve encountered even a young or small cucumber that has a displeasing taste. The skin of the cucumber is what’s bitter, if I’m not mistaken.

I do know that soil acidity has a lot to do with the taste of certain crops. Nutrient content of the soil also can have a marked effect on taste. The two can be interrelated, as well; different nutrients become available to plants under different levels of soil acidity.

Some people believe — and there’s evidence in their own experiences — that “sweetening” the soil by reducing the acidity will make crops more palatable. Adding lime or another amendment that raises the soil’s pH, such as wood ash, will “sweeten” the soil. This will, perhaps, “sweeten” the cucumber crop.

This is a good topic to put out to readers. If anyone has reason to believe bitter cucumbers are caused by other factors, send your thoughts to me at the address below, and I’ll be sure to share them in a future column.

Diana George Chapin is the NEWS garden columnist. Send horticulture questions to Gardening Questions, c/o Maine Weekend, Bangor Daily News, P.O. Box 1329, Bangor 04402-1329. Selected questions will be answered in future columns. Include name, address and telephone