Now that the weather seems to be back on track, it’s time for some autumnal gardening. Perhaps the most common thing to do in October is bulb planting which can safely be done through the end of the month and usually a little later than that.

I wonder how many garden gurus and authors have made the age-old recommendation to use bone meal in the hole before dropping in the bulb. While it is true that bone meal provides a safe, long-lasting charge of phosphorus and calcium plus a trace of nitrogen, there are more complete fertilizers that one should consider. Before listing these, let me add that more than one gardener has complained to me about skunks or raccoons digging freshly set bulbs. Bone meal has a tantalizing odor to these creatures and for this reason you may want to consider the alternatives.

Organic gardeners have the right idea when it comes to soil fertility. They eschew quick-acting chemical feeds in favor of natural sources of plant nutrients, and in so doing, automatically end up with long-term nutrient supplies. Whether compost, manure or sludge is used, there is more than a year’s worth of fertility to be slowly released by microbial action.

If chemical fertilizer suits your immediate needs better than the above, by all means use a commercial bulb starter if you can afford it. The correct balance of nutrients these preparations contain will pay off next year in flowers that are big and stocky. If you prefer to use an ordinary garden fertilizer, choose one with a high phosporus content, say 5-10-5, at a rate of no more than two tablespoons per bulb.

Now, when you plant a tulip or daffodil this month, you should be aware that an extensive root system emerges from the bulb before the onset of winter. For this reason, it’s a good idea to place at least a portion of whatever fertilizer you use in the bottom of the hole and the rest on top.

With the exception of very fresh manures, organic fertilizers don’t pose much of a threat of burning roots the way chemical feeds do. As much as a cup of compost or very old manure can be put in each planting hole and an equal amount above ground.

Another approach to providing good fertility in the bulb bed is to spade the entire area, working in generous quantities of organic fertilizer or granular at a rate of 1-2 cups per square yard. Liming at the same rate is a good addition to either feeding regimen. With the ground all nice and fluffy, bulb planting is a snap.

Proper planting depth is, of course, quite important. Read the package carefully. If no directions are given, set the bulb four to five times as deep as its diameter.

Perhaps the greatest challenge to the bulb planter is the aesthetic challenge. I have seen, on rare occasions, a single straight row of mixed tulips that looked charming in a Mary-Quite-Contrary sort of way. More commonly, this regimented system does not look half as good in springtime as it appeared in the mind’s eye the fall before.

Solid color blocks of tulips are a safer bet, but if you go with a mixed planting, keep the space between bulbs to a minimum and avoid straight rows.

With the chore of bulb planting done, take time to appreciate the poignant atmosphere of the season, lest you find yourself living too much in the future tense.