From north to south, an increasing number of Mainers are providing tangible support to Maine’s agriculture community by buying shares in local Community Supported Agriculture farms. CSAs are a growing trend in American agriculture, as consumers seek a closer relationship with the farmers who produce their food.

Supporters of CSA farms buy “shares” at farms of their choice in early spring. The farmers use the money to buy seeds and equipment for the coming year. In return for their investment, shareholders receive a weekly supply of diverse fresh fruits and vegetables throughout the growing season and, in some cases, into winter.

“If the CSA model is thriving, it’s because it offers a win-win solution for producers and consumers,” said Roger Doiron of the Eat Local Foods Coalition of Maine. “Farmers enjoy knowing in advance that their costs are covered and their returns are guaranteed, while consumers feel good about supporting local farms and knowing the origins of their food.”

Community Supported Agriculture farms are a relatively recent phenomenon in the United States, said Doiron. The concept first emerged in Japan in the 1970s under the name “teikei,” which literally translated means “partnership” or “cooperation.” The idea was developed by a group of Japanese women who were concerned with the use of pesticides, the increase in processed and imported foods, and the corresponding decrease in the farm population.

Doiron said, “The more philosophical translation for teikei is ‘food with the farmer’s face on it.’ The concept spread to Europe, then to the United States, where a farm in Massachusetts dubbed it Community Supported Agriculture in 1985. As of 2002, there were more than 1,000 CSA farms in the country, including 57 in Maine.

One CSA is operated by Ross Adams in Farmington. Adams has operated his diversified farm as a CSA for four years, last year serving 35 people.

“This is a fabulous program,” he said. “It truly bridges the gap between the farmer and the consumer.”

Adams said with the many food concerns today – mad cow disease, genetically modified ingredients, growth hormones – more consumers are turning to their local farms for pure, high-quality food.

“The customers want to know who is growing their food and how they are growing it,” said Adams. “They want to know who that person is and what their character is. That’s important to them.”

Adams said he has 200 acres under cultivation, producing pork, dairy, chicken, beef and vegetables.

This type of local connection and diversification, said Adams, is going to be the key to the secure future of Maine’s agriculture.

“As a Maine farmer, I’m not going to be feeding a family in Ohio,” said Adams. “I’m going to be feeding my neighbors.”

This trend of locally sponsored agriculture was recognized recently by former Maine agriculture commissioner and current University of Maine professor Stewart Smith in a presentation to the Muskie School as part of the Changing Maine series.

“I would not be surprised to see substantial growth in local agriculture farming in the next generation,” Smith said, “especially if it receives adequate public support.”

Smith estimates that in 2002, direct food sales in Maine to consumers was close to $50 million.

He said that most agriculture research has focused on industrial agriculture and that must shift to provide support from the research community.

“An adequate development program will provide substantial benefits in the form of open space, fresh foods and vital communities,” Smith said.