Spices turn wild meats into a whole new game

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WILD ABOUT GAME, by Janie Hibler, Broadway Books, N.Y., 1998, hardback, 311 pgs., $30.

In recent weeks, I have been trying out some recipes in “Wild About Game” by Janie Hibler. This newly published cookbook bears little in common with “Joy of Cooking” or “Betty Crocker.” What it is is an entertaining read on preparing all sorts of wild game in a gourmet manner.

Hibler makes her home on the West Coast and many of the recipes call for ingredients such as dried porcini mushrooms, Chipotle chilies and cilantro. Not much in common with New England cooking, and herein lies its appeal. The recipes are from all over the western United States.

Over the past decade, this bolder, spicier style of cooking has become very popular. The popularity of Mexican, Cajun, and Thai cuisines are a testament to the acceptance of more exotic food by the general public. Many of those trophy buck deer and bull moose harvested this past fall could stand to be spiced up!

In “Wild About Game,” each recipe starts out with a little story on how the author came to acquire it, or its origin in general. Many of the recipes were obtained from famous chefs in such cosmopolitan cities as Dallas and San Francisco. Others, such as “German-style venison sausage,” originated in the butcher shops of Chicago and can’t be credited to any one individual. Their worth is in their popularity and having stood the test of time.

Interspersed among the recipes are tidbits of interest, such as quotes from Theodore Roosevelt, William Faulkner, and Meriwether Lewis to name a few.

“A cold winter’s night, having built a slight lean-to of brush and dragged together dead timber to burn all night, we cut long alder twigs, sat before some embers raked apart and grilled and ate our buffalo meat,” reads a passage from Roosevelt’s book, “The Wilderness Hunter.” “Night had fallen; a cold wind blew up the valley, the torrent roared as it leaped past us and drowned our words as we strove to talk about our adventures and successes; while the flame of the fire flickered and danced, lighting up with continual vivid flashes the glow of the forest about.”

The book is illustrated with antique wood cuts and old photos. I especially enjoyed those photos showing the old-timers posing with their dogs, guns, and smoking their pipes.

Every few pages there are little snippets of information and outdoor lore — such as the term `stool pigeon.’ The term “comes from early American practice of attaching a live pigeon to a stool, strategically placed under a net, in order to attract large flocks of pigeons flying by.”

Of course, no matter how entertaining, a cookbook is the true test and value must be measured at the table. I happen to be in possession of some bull moose meat that is doing its best to wear out our crockpot. A true challenge to prepare! We tried three of the recipes and were very happy with the results.

Venison Flips

1 small onion 1 1/2 pounds venison round steak or beef flank steak, well chilled and cut into 1-inch pieces

1/4 pound lean, hickory-smoked pepper bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces 1 egg

1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme or 1/4 teaspoon dried, crushed 1 teaspoon coarse salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 to 3 teaspoons olive oil

Pulse the onion in a food processor until it is coarsely chopped. Add the venison, bacon, egg, thyme, salt, and pepper in the bowl and pulse 10 to 12 more times until the mixture is homogenous.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Shape the mixture into six 4-inch patties and fry for 2 minutes. “Flip,” or turn over, and cook the other side. The flips are done when they are no longer pink in the center.

Grilled Venison Kebabs

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

1/4 cup red wine vinegar 2 cups red wine, such as Burgundy, merlot, or zinfandel 1 teaspoon sugar

1/2 cup olive oil 1 large onion, divided (chop smaller, inner pieces of onion for marinade; save larger, outer pieces for skewering, 2 layers at a time) 2 garlic cloves, minced 3 tablespoons minced, fresh herbs, such as rosemary, oregano, marjoram, or a mixture

1/2 cup minced, fresh, flat-leaf parsley 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoon coarse salt

1/2 teaspoon cracked black pepper 2 pounds venison loin or beef tenderloin, cut into 1-inch cubes 1 medium red bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1-inch pieces 1 medium yellow bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1-inch pieces

In a medium bowl, combine the balsamic vinegar, red wine vinegar, red wine, sugar, olive oil, about 1 to 1 1/2 cups chopped onion, garlic, herbs, parsley, bay leaf, salt and pepper. Add the meat, cover, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours.

Soak bamboo skewers in water for at least 30 minutes so they won’t burn.

Heat the grill or broiler. Thread the meat onto the skewers, alternating with the pepper and onion pieces. Discard the marinade.

Grill the kebabs over medium-hot coals, turning once, until medium-rare, about 8 minutes.

Serve hot over seasoned rice.

Jim Peva served for more than two decades in the Maine Marine Patrol. A master registered Maine Guide, he has hunted and fished all his life.